• Bias – the diagonal direction of the fabric
• Cross Grain/Crosswise Grain/Weft/Fill – threads that run from left to right; always perpendicular to the selvage 
• Drape – the way that the fabric falls and forms to the body

• Fabric Grain – the direction of the threads used in weaving the fabrics
• Face – the front (or right) side of fabric
• Fold Line – refers to folding right sides together to prepare fabric for cutting and pattern piece arrangement

• Hand – the texture or feeling that a fabric has 
• Length(wise) Grain/Warp – threads in woven fabric that run the length of the fabric and are parallel (same direction) to the selvage
• Nap – the direction that fibers in textured fabrics lay down

• Selvage – the tightly woven edge of fabric in a roll that doesn’t fray before being sold
• Wrong Side – the backside of fabric

• • Clip – small snips placed in curved or angled areas of pattern pieces to add ease and keep the area smooth

• • Cutting Line – solid lines printed on patterns that show where to cut out the pattern

• • Darts – triangular wedge-shape that’s folded and sewn into areas that have more fullness to achieve a better fit (often found at the bust, waist, and/or hips)

• • Dots – marks placed at seam intersections, dart points, collars, and more on pattern pieces to locate where garment pieces should line up 
  • Cut On Fold Symbol – an open ended rectangle with a double edged arrow; this symbol specifies when a piece needs to be cut on fold
  • Ease – space in a pattern allotted for fit and style, according to the body’s specific measurements 

• • Grade/Layer – to increase or decrease the sample size of a pattern to make a complete size range
  • Hem – bottom edge of a garment that is raw and then finished by being folded and sewn
  • Iron – to move the iron backward or forward against a finished garment in order to create crisp seams and help the garment lay correctly

• • Layout – a printed portion found in pattern instructions that helps to organize pattern pieces when placing on fabric for cutting 
  • Marking/Tracing – to transfer trued lines and guidelines from muslin or pattern over to pattern paper using a marking tool or tracing aid
  • Notch – triangle shaped cuts or marks placed into pattern pieces that help align pieces for sewing

• • Pivot – a sewing technique used for corners where the needle is lowered into the fabric and the fabric is rotated to the desired position
  • Pre-shrink – to launder fabric normally before sewing if the content is prone to shrinkage
  • Press – to lift and lower an iron onto pattern pieces to release wrinkles or to set in the seam

• • Seam Allowance – the width of fabric between the seam line and the edge of the fabric that allows room for fraying and wearing ease 
  • Seam – a series of stitches that holds two or more pieces of fabric together 
  • Tack – a stitch type used for reinforcement at points of stress such as pockets or zippers

• • Trim – to cut down the sewn seam allowance to reduce bulk
  • Yoke – an element added for fit that is usually added across the shoulders or to the waistline

• Bed – the flat part of the sewing machine where the fabric rests when it’s being sewn
• Bobbin – a bottom thread fed through the machine to meet the spool to make the stitch 
• Bobbin Case – holds the bobbin in place, allowing the machine to unravel it neatly

• Bobbin Cover/Slide Plate – covers the bobbin case and keeps it in place
• Bobbin Winder Spindle – a mechanism that is typically moved to the right to wind thread from the spool to the bobbin 
• Bobbin Winder Thread Guide – used to wind the bobbin evenly

• Feed Dogs – 2-3 metal bars on a sewing machine bed that feed fabric through the machine 
• Foot Pedal – regulates the start/stop of the machine through the use of the foot
• Free Arm – a detachable piece that’s a part of the machine bed; it’s used to sew small or circular areas

• Guidelines – measurements located on the throat plate used to guide the edge of fabric to keep seam widths even
• Hand Wheel – large wheel found on the right side of the machine that raises and lowers the needle
• Needle Clamp – small, flat screw that keeps the needle in place

• Power & Light Switch – turns the sewing machine and its light on/off
• Power Socket – where the power cord is placed into the machine
• Presser Foot – uses pressure to hold fabric in place as it meets the feed dogs

• Presser Foot Lever – used to raise and lower the presser foot
• Reverse Stitch Button or Lever – a button/lever that creates backstitches to lock the seam in place
• Sewing Needle – special needle designed for use in a sewing machine rather than for hand sewing 

• Spool Pin – small extendable rod on the top of a machine that holds thread and keeps it in place 
• Stitch-Length Control – a dial or button that controls the distance between stitches
• Stitch Pattern Selector – a dial or screen that allows the user to choose a stitch type

• Stitch-Width Control – dial that controls the width between stitches or the position of the needle
• Tension Control – a dial that controls the amount of pressure that’s applied to the thread
• Thread cutter – a knife found to the left and behind the needle that is used to cut threads after a seam is sewn 

• Thread Guides – guides the thread from the spool to the needle
• Thread Take-Up Lever – a metal hook that pulls back thread after each stitch to prevent tangles and feeds thread from the spool to the needle
• Throat Plate – metal part of the machine located under the presser foot that protects the bobbin/bobbin case

• • Bound – appears to look like a french seam from the right side and from the wrong side it has neatly enclosed stitches 
  • Double Stitched – a plain seam with two lines of stitches
  • Flat-Felled – a double stitched, closed seam that is durable and conceals raw edges which lie flat

• • French – Encloses the seam allowance so that no raw edges are visible; best used on thin fabrics to avoid bulkiness
  • Lapped – right sides of fabric face up and overlap 
  • Plain – the most basic seam; any seam that attaches two pieces of wrong facing fabrics together 
  • Superimposed – edges that are placed one over the other and sewn along the edges

• Back Stitch – reverse machine stitching done to the beginning and the end of a seam to secure the stitch from unraveling 
• Baste – a temporary set of stitches that hold a seam in place before permanent stitches are applied, usually sewn with a long stitch length and no back stitching
• Edge Stitch – a series of straight stitches placed about ⅛” from the edge of the trimmed seam or outer edge

• Reinforced – small stitches made at corners or high tension areas to reduce stress
• Serged – closely interlocked stitches that will finish raw edges, often used for knits and jeans
• Stay Stitch – stitches used to stabilize fabric placed on or just outside the seam

• Stitch in the Ditch – where seams are joined; facings are hand tacked or machine stitched in the “ditch” to hold in place and partially hide stitches
• Straight Stitch – a basic line of simple stitches
• Top Stitch – a line of decorative stitches sewn ¼” from the edge on the right side of fabric that is parallel to a seam or edge
• Understitch – seam allowances that are stitched to the facing along the outer edge 

Skirt Silhouettes

• A-line – fitted throughout the hips, widening out to the hem
  • Shop bestselling skirt fabrics!
  • Free patterns:Juniper Skirt & Cassia Skirt
• Ball Gown – a floor sweeping, voluminous full-length skirt
  • Shop formal fabrics!
  • Free patterns: Iris Ensemble
• Circle – a circular cut of fabric that forms a full skirt that hangs smoothly
  • Try our free Circle Skirt Calculator!

• Dirndl – having a fitted waistband and a full skirt
  • Shop casual dress fabrics!
  • Free pattern: Romulea Skirt
• Mermaid – fitted from the hips to the mid-calf with a tapered flare at the bottom
  • Shop prom fabrics!
• Pencil – a slim fitting skirt that reaches the knee or just above it
  • Ship suiting fabrics!
  • Free pattern: Aspen Ensemble

• Sheath – form fitting style that commonly hits right at the knee but can vary in length
• Trumpet/Tulip – fitted from the hips to the knees with a peplum style bottom
  • Shop day dress fabrics!
  • Free pattern: Gardenia Skirt

Skirt Lengths

• Maxi – reaching ankle length
• Midi (Tea-length) – a mid-calf length skirt, typically with a lot of fullness 
• Mini – fitted style with a mid-thigh length

Outerwear Styles:

• • Balmacaan – often made with raglan sleeves and a wide and full fit
  • Battle – short in length and fitted at the cuffs and waist originally made to take the place of original army jackets 
  • Blazer – traditionally hip-length with a notched lapel and single or double breasted buttons; can have a tailored or boxy fit

• • Bolero – open front style hitting just above the waist in length 
  • Cardigan – a long-sleeved knitted sweater with a button front 
  • Chesterfield – made of simple vertical seams with a trench length

• • Polo/Camel – a tailored coat similar to a trench style with a sheath dress fit
  • Reefer – a fitted double-breasted style with a trench length 
  • Safari – belted jacket with a collar and utility style pockets

• • Spencer – long-sleeved fitted style that ended at the waistline 
  • Trapeze (swing) – made with ½ or ¾ length sleeves, a lengthened lapel, and an a-line cut
  • Trench – double-breasted having pockets, shoulder straps and a waist belt, ranging from ankle to knee length
  • Wrap – a style that ties at the waist where one side overlaps the other

Bottoms Styles:

• • Ankle/Cropped/Cigarette – a style that hits right at or above the ankle
  • Capri – mid-calf length with a fitted cuff
  • Culottes – mid-calf length, similar to the capri, but with a slightly loose fitting leg

• • Harem – soft, loose fitting pants with a fitted cuff
  • Hip hugger – waistband sits at the hip region
  • Jumpsuit – the joining of a top and bottom incorporated into one garment

• • Palazzo – loose, wide-legged style
  • Pleated – creases that are sewn and folded before being attached to the waistband
  • Raised-waist – sits slightly above the hips

• • Straight leg – a fit that does not change and falls straight from the thighs to the hem
  • Tapered – style that becomes more slim as it reaches the ankle
  • Wide-leg – very loosely fitted pants from hips to cuffs

Shorts Styles:

• Boxer – loose fitting shorts that reach the mid-thigh 
• Jamaica – a knee length style with a body skimming fit
• Tailored – style with belt loops, a body skimming fit, an upper mid thigh length, and a cuffed hemline
• Walking/Bermuda – body skimming style with a hem that can be cuffed or uncuffed, reaching about 1” above the knee

Lapel Styles:

• Notch – conventional style where the collar and lapel meet to form a V
• Peak – sits closely to the collar with a dip that comes up to form a peak, this style resembles a paper plane edge 
• Shawl – curved style commonly found on tuxedos

Blazer Pockets:

• On (In) Seam – a concealed pocket covered by the other layers, and is nearly invisible with no closures
• Patch – a separate square-like piece of separate fabric top-stitched onto a garment
• Seam to Seam – style that reaches from the princess seam to the side seam of the garment and usually includes a closure like a button 
• Welt – bound pockets with a reinforced border along the top edge of the fabric

Pants/Shorts Pockets:

• Jeans – flat pocket reaching from the side seam to the bottom of the waistband in a rectangular shape with a rounded bottom edge
• Scoop – flat pocket reaching from the side seam to the bottom of the waistband in a semi-circle fashion
• Trouser – flat pocket forming a diagonal triangle from the bottom of the waistband to the side seam of the bottoms
• Western – flat pocket reaching from the side seam to the bottom of the waistband forming a 45 degree angle
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Underlinings:

• Interfacing – a fabric used for support in areas of stress
• Interlining – material added between the fashion fabric and the lining; usually for warmth 
• Lining – an inner layer that can be decorative- added for greater opacity, warmth, structure, or comfort
• Underlining – sewing fashion fabric to a backing fabric to provide stability

Collar Types:

• Buttoned Down – style with a buttonhole on either collar point that attaches to the shirt
• Classic – easily identifiable by the small amount of spread from the collar edge to the button
• Club – style with rounded edges
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• Hidden button – style with an extra layer on the corner to conceal a hidden button hole
• Long Point – made with long pointy edges
• Mandarin – small, upright collar that is closely fitted to the neck

• Pinned – a style held down on either side by a pin
• Two Button – features 2 buttons at the top of the button placket to provide extra height or stiffness to the collar

Necklines:

• Boat – wide neckline that sits slightly below the collar bone
• Cowl – heightened neckline with a loose fit 
• Crew – close fitting, round neckline 

• Funnel – high neck style that does not have a seam
• Halter – a style held up by a tie that wraps around the neck
• Jewel – higher rise scoop with a slight curve

• Mock Turtle – similar to a funnel neck, but shorter and more fitted 
• Oval scoop – style with a deeper scoop
• Square – style that resembles a half square shape

• Strapless – a top with no straps or sleeves
• Turtleneck – fitted, high collar that folds over 
• V-neck – style with two lines that meet to form a V

Sleeve Types:

• Bishop – a long sleeve with gathering at the bottom finished with a cuff
• Dolman – attached to the body of the garment without seams, being very loose at the shoulder and tapering to a more fitted style towards the wrist
• Drop Shoulder – the sleeve is lengthened past the shoulder edge and the bottom of the sleeve is shortened 

• Mutton – very wide towards the shoulder and fitted from the elbow to wrist 
• Peasant – gathered at the shoulder and the cuff
• Puffed – gathered at the top and the cuff with fullness in the middle

• Quarter Length – extends in length between the elbow and wrist
• Raglan – having a diagonal seam that begins under the arm and reaches to the collar bone with a closely fitted sleeve that extends past the elbow
• Set-in – sleeve seam that starts at the shoulder edge and continues around the armhole

• Sleeveless – absent of sleeves
• Strapless – a top with no straps or sleeves
• Tapered – loose at the armhole and closely fitted down the sleeve towards the wrist

Buttonholes:

• Bound – a decorative buttonhole made with a rectangular lip from its front side
• Keyhole (cord or grip) – reinforced with 2 lines of tight stitches that have a circular shaped end resembling a keyhole
• Oval Bound – a version of the bound buttonhole with an oval shaped lip

• Slit – simple buttonhole with a rectangular fence of stitches to control the hole width
• Zig-zag– basic machine sewn buttonhole consisting of two parallel lines of zig-zag stitches

• Cord Locks – a cylindrical device that can retract and expand to allow or stop a threaded drawstring from slipping; typically found in waistbands or jackets hemlines
• D-Ring or O-Ring – adjustable buckles that are great for connecting straps 
• Hooks/Hook & Eyes – consist of 2 metal pieces – one that resembles a rounded omega sign and a flattened hook that interlock and keep small edges together once they are sewn in place

• Toggle – a loop and a T-shaped piece that interlock together- great for outerwear or adding a fashionable element to garments
• Zippers – having two strips of flexible fabric with teeth that interlock and can be sewn to garments 

• Natural – fitted with ease and room for movement 
• Over-sized – loose, having little to no shape
• Relaxed – less fitted and shapely 

• Slim – fit that follows the body
• Stretch to fit – a fabric with give that fits closely to the body