J – Jelly Roll – created by Moda, Jelly Rolls are a pack of precuts which are 2.5″ x 44″. They can also be called Roll Ups.
K – Knife Pleat – A single pleat turned in one direction.
Knitted fabric – Is a stretchy fabric that is not made by weaving yarn but by using stocking stitch on fine yarn and is often used with elastic fabric to produce swimwear and t shirt fabric.
L – Ladder stitch – used to close large openings or join two pattern pieces invisibly. Very useful for knitwear and rigid pieces of work.
Layer cake – a pack of pre-cut 10 inch squares used for patchwork, which can be cut again to create different shapes.
Lock stitch – This is the most usual and common type of stitching performed by sewing machines. A lock stitch is where two threads, one from the bobbin and one from the main thread are kept on their own side of the material, but literally ‘locked’ together each time the needle enters the fabric. The lockstitch is a secure stitch, that wont come undone once the material is removed from the machine. The alternative to a lockstitch is a ‘chain stitch’. Most children’s toy machine’s perform this stitch. It is not a secure stitch as it needs to be sewn in and tied once removed from the machine to prevent it from unravelling.
Long-Arm quilting – Machine and frame used together to allow sandwiching of layers and free-motion quilting eg: for larger quilts.
Long Stitch – An embroidery/tapestry stitch which can cover from 1 to 12 threads in one stitch. Can be horizontal or vertical and be done with any number of threads or yarn.
M – Mannequin – Or tailors dummy a synthetic human body that you can use to create patterns on by draping fabric onto it rather than cutting a pattern first.
Muslin – a loose weaved and light weight fabric that has a linen type weave.
N – Nap – applies to fabrics that have a pile, such as velvet, velour, corduroy. It is important to ensure that these fabrics are cut out with the pile running in the same direction as fabric is lighter if you run your hand in one direction and darker if rubbed in the opposite direction.
Notches – Diamond shaped marks that stick out beyond the edge of the pattern, to help you to line up all the pattern pieces when you sew the garment. They come in pairs to be matched up.
Notions – all those little things that mean so much when embarking on a sewing project. Think zips, thread, elastic, interfacing, buttons, hooks and eyes, ribbon and binding. Sometimes overlooked when purchasing the fabric, but all very essential for the end result to be perfect.
O – Open-Ended Zip – These zips still have the 2 parallel rows of teeth, however the ends are not joined and finish in a small box & pin mechanism to join the 2 sides at the base. These types of zips are most commonly used in jackets and coats.
Overlocker (Serger) – a specialised sewing machine that trims and neatens the edge of fabric. Some models can also be used to make a decorative flatlock stitch used on hems and decorative seams.
P – Pattern Master – A Pattern Master is a specially shaped ruler used to aid pattern cutting. It is made of clear plastic and displays several markings and measurements required in creating or altering patterns. The Pattern Master works like an advanced Graders Set Square, but has a curved edge to further assist pattern cutters in their drawing.
Piecing – When two pieces of fabric are sewn together usually using a 1/4″ seam allowance.
Pinking shears – Scissors that cut a zigzag edge thereby reducing the risk of fraying.
Pin Cushion – a place to put pins and needles, available with wrist straps to make them accessible. Other pin cushions have materials to aid sharpening of pins and needle on use.
Pleats – Pleats are folds in fabric that provide controlled fullness. Pleating may occur as a single pleat, as a cluster, or around an entire garment section.
Q – Quarter Inch Machine Foot – A special sewing machine foot, supplied either with the machine or bought as an optional extra, great for sewing exact 1/4 inch seams, has a metal guide for fabric placement, perfect results for quilting projects.
QST – Abbreviation of quarter-square triangles.
Quick Unpick – a small tool that has a sharp pointed end, that when slid between stitches, will cut and unpick them. Makes for speedy work.
Quilting – The stitching which holds together the 3 layers of a quilt. This can be done by hand or by machine.
Quilt Label – A label to record the name of the maker, year, and recipient/s of quilt for future information
R – Raw Edge – This is the piece of material when cut, before hemming. If the raw edge is not ‘hemmed’ the edge may fray.
Ripping – An essential skill for a beginner quilter – the act of unpicking (or ripping) seams which are not precisely 1/4 inch, derived from muttering ‘Got to rip it all out AGAIN” under one’s breath!
Rotary cutter – A really useful tool for cutting material quickly and easily. It can cut throug several layers of fabric at once and is best used in combination with a quilting ruler or other straight edged implement.
Run and fell seam – With wrong sides together, stitch a straight seam, 5/8″ from edge. Trim one seam allowance to 1/4″ and press seam open with both seam allowances to one side with wider seam on top. Fold this wider allowance over trimmed edge and top stitch down along fold. Used in denim jeans.
Ruffler – An attachment to your sewing machine that you fit instead of a foot. It can be used to gather/pleat the fabric as you sew. It differs from a small gathering foot as the gathers can be adjusted in length and frequency of tucks.
S – Satin stitch – a short zigzag stitch that forms a solid line, often used in applique.
Scraps – all those left-over pieces of fabric that you keep for future projects.
Scribble – A continuous machine stitch which is useful for covering large or small areas of quilting when a specific design is not required. The lines of stitching should not cross or join with each, producing a meandering stitch which will suit any type of quilt.
Seam allowance – the distance between the edge of the fabric and the stitched line – common seam allowances are 1/4″ (for patchwork) and 3/8″ or 1/2″ (for dressmaking). Amongst patchworkers the ‘scant quarter inch seam’ can be particularly tricky and could be described as ‘infamous’ rather than ‘popular’!
Selvedge: The finished edges of fabric which do not fray. These edge are created during the weaving process by the horizontal weft thread as it loops back from the end of one row to the beginning of the next. Some selvedges have a different weave, or do not feature the print or pile of the main fabric, and so may not be not used in the construction of the final item. Selvedges sometimes also feature makers marks. For some garments, or fabrics where the selvedge is not significantly different from the main fabric, it can be used as a structural component – for example for hem edges.
Sew Together – often used to indicate that the next step will be to sew the fabric right sides or wrong sides together. Can also be used when organising a group of like minded people to meet at a certain time to enjoy beverages along with cake – cake is very important – and enjoying each others company whilst sewing.
Shirring – Shirring is formed with multiple rows of gathering & is primarily a decorative way of controlling fullness. In contrast to gathering, in which fullness is controlled with a seam, the fullness in shirring is controlled over a comparatively wide span.
Smart Edges – meaning to overlock.
Smocking – Smocking consists of fabric folds, decoratively stitched together at regular intervals to create a patterned effect. The folds may be pulled in when the stitching is done, or the fabric may be first gathered into folds & then smocked.
Snips – scissors deisgned to be used in one hand to cut threads
Snippeting – The collectable snipets of information saved for future projects.
Spit – a little bit of moisture used on finger and thumb which makes it easier to roll fabrics, tie knots etc.
Stash – Fabric which has been smuggled into the house without the knowledge (or consent) of your partner, and which is produced after a reasonable time has elapsed, when you can honestly say ‘I’ve had it for ages’
Stay Stitching – A straight line of stitching within the seam allowance and is used on curved or bias edges. It makes it easier to put in sleeves and collars using stay stitching.
Stitch n flip – To sew the pieces together and then flip over and press.
Stitch in the ditch – A term used to describe sewing along a seamline from the right side after the seam has been pressed open.
Stitch Unpicker – A small tool specially designed to slide under and cut through unwanted stitches.
Stumpwork – Stumpwork is an embroidery technique originating in the 17th century. Individual elements of each design are raised up from the background by using padding or by applying the shape to wire before stitching to the background thereby creating a 3D effect.
T – Tacking – Very large stitches used to hold two pieces of cloth together to make sewing easier. The tacking stitches are removed once the permanent seam has been sown.
Tacking Thread – is very easy to break thread, designed for tacking and transferring markings from pattern to fabric. It is great for temporarily marking or stitching fabric as it can be easily removed – it breaks very easily and can be torn by hand. Because of this, it isn’t really suitable for anything other than tacking.
Tailor’s chalk – A piece of chalk used to mark fabric.
Toile – from the French meaning cloth, a toile is a test garment made up by a seamstress or dress maker out of cheap fabric to test the cut, size and shape of a garment and to check for any alterations before cutting the more expensive fashion fabric.
Top stitching – stitching close to the edge of a seam (on the right side, or ‘top’ of the piece) to stop seam allowances and facings from rolling or moving. Gives a professional finish, particularly useful when making bags and is also often used on necklines. Top stitching can either be decorative (use a decorative ‘fancy’ stitch or contrasting thread) or ‘invisible’ (use matching thread).
Tracing Wheel – used with dressmakers carbon to transfer information from the paper pattern to the fabric, such as positions and sizes of darts, circles, etc.
Twin Needle – An attachment for your sewing machine that produces parallel rows of decorative stitching in one easy step.
U – Understitch – when a line of stitching is made on a facing close to the seam through the facing and all the seam allowances. This encourages the facing to sit smoothly and not roll to the outside.
Unpicking – Something that we don’t like to admit to having to do, but when we do have to do it, it can take as long (if not longer) than the sewing in the first place. Usually occurs when in a hurry to complete something or when a very small stitch has been used.
V – Variegated thread – multi-coloured used for top stitching or quilting to create a different look or interesting effect on a garment or quilt.
Vertical Bobbin –The bobbin moves back and forth to pick up the thread.
W – Wadding – Wadding refers to a fibrous material (such as cotton, wool or bamboo) used for filling items such as quilts, wall hangings and placemats. It comes in various thicknesses depending on the level of insulation required and can be purchased in a selection of pre-cut lengths or cut off the roll for a unique size. Also known as batting or filler.
Warp – The threads that run down woven fabric.
Whipstitch – Visible stitches, wrapped around two edges, to join them together. Useful for sewing up soft toys.
Whoopsadaisy – A meandering machine stitch which has crossed and merged with other lines forming the shape of a flower, typically a daisy.
X – Xilinous – An obscure adjective relating/pertaining to cotton.
Y – Y-adjustment – One type of method for a full bust adjustment and described by Palmer/Pletsch. Takes its name from the shape of the alteration lines which run from i) the armhole notch to the bust apex, ii) the middle of the shoulder seam to the bust apex, and iii) vertically from the bust apex to the hem.
Yo-Yo – also known as a Suffolk Puff or a Rosette, this is made by running stitches around the edge of a circle of fabric and pulling them tight to draw the fabric up. Turning the edge of the fabric over as you stitch, towards the wrong side, gives a neater look. Tie off your thread and apply the yo-yo, drawn side up, to your project. Amy Butler’s ‘Bloom Quilt’ shows these off beautifully http://amybutlerdesign.com/pdfs/Bloom_Quilt.pdf
Z – Zig-Zag Stitch – The stitch can be used for decorative purpose or for tidy up of seams; adjusting width and length allows you to achieve all sorts of effects; some modern machines allow patterns that involve zig-zag stitches.
Zip – These are a closure method that uses 2 parallel rows of teeth that are attached to fabric tape. These are then stitched into an opening and closed using a slider which locks the teeth together. Standard zips are usually closed at the end of the tape – often in the form of a staple holding the 2 fabric tapes together.